815-729-1600
Mon, Tu, Th, Fri, Sat: 10a-4p

Needle Types

Needles are a key element to sewing. With "sew" many choices in fabric it is important to choose the correct needle to complete your project. It is also important to change your needle often as a variety of fabrics contribute to the rapid dulling of the tip. Below are a variety of needles available. Some needles are offered with a titanium coating that resists adhesives, improves needle wear & penetration of densely woven fabrics.
UNIVERSAL NEEDLES
- Fabric: Woven, Natural, Synthetic Fabrics
- Easily slips through weave of knits and woven fabric with rounded tip and tapered end
DENIM NEEDLES
- Fabric: Extra Thick Fabric
- Reduces breakage and skip stitches with a sharp point and reinforced blade
EMBROIDERY NEEDLES
- Fabric: Rayon, Polyester and other specialty fabrics
- Guard against excess friction allowing trouble-free embroidery and decorative stitching
LEATHER NEEDLES
- Fabric: Heavy Leather, Vinyl
- Cuts through leather and other heavy non-woven imitation leathers and suedes without creating large holes due to the needles wedge shape slightly sharp cutting point
QUILTING NEEDLES
- Fabric: Quilting, Heavy Woven Fabrics
- Perfect for quilting and topstitching due to the needles very slim acute point
MICROTEX NEEDLES
- Fabric: Tightly Woven Mid Weight Fabrics
- Perfect for microfibers, polyester and other synthetic fabrics.
STRETCH NEEDLES
- Fabric: Stretch Fabrics
- Perfect for sewing through stretch fabrics, the point is rounded but less rounded than ball point to pierce through thicker threads
BALL POINT NEEDLES
- Fabric: Knit Fabrics
- Designed to slide between the yarns of knit fabrics without snagging with a rounded tip
WING NEEDLES
- For beautiful hem stitches, wing needle punches a hole into your fabric while the sewing machine stitches around the piercing
TOPSTITCH NEEDLES
- Fabric: Topstitch Heavy Weight Fabrics
- Achieve perfectly straight stitch lines for heavy or multiple threads with this very long eye of the needle
OVERLOCK NEEDLES
- Fabric: Woven and Stretch Heavy Weight
- Designed specifically for overlock stitching
CUTWORK NEEDLES
- Fabric: Cutwork Fabrics
- Create beautiful cutwork and reverse applique designs quickly and easily, without any tedious trimming.
UNIVERSAL TWIN NEEDLES
- Fabric: Medium Woven Fabrics
- Create two rows of stitches simultaneously and uses two spools of thread and one bobbin thread
STRETCH TWIN NEEDLES
- Fabric: Stretch Fabrics
- Creates a dual stitch through stretch fabric with a rounded tip of the needle to pierce through thicker fabric
Needle Sizes
The European metric sizing system for sewing machine needles is numbered from 60 to 130. The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 21. For both sizing systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle. Generally when selecting, the lighter the fabric the smaller the needle size needed and the heavier the fabric the larger the needle size. Many times the thread you will be using for your sewing project will also determine the type of needle you choose. For example, when using a fine, delicate thread, be sure to use a smaller needle size. If the proper thread and needle combination is not selected, you may experience thread breakage.
Most companies list both numbering systems on the package.
Fabrics below can be of any fiber, cotton, linen, silk, wool, synthetic, rayon, blends. | Machine Needle Type | Machine Needle Size |
---|---|---|
Sheer to lightweight: Batiste, Chiffon, Georgette, Organza, Voile and all microfiber or microdenier fabrics. | Regular Point | 9/70 or 11/80 |
Lightweight: Challis, Chambray, Charmeuse, Crepe de Chine, Gauze, Handkerchief Linen, Silk, Taffeta, Tissue Faille. | Regular Point | 11/80 |
Medium-weight: Broadcloth, Brocade, Chino, Chintz, Corduroy, Flannel, Linen, Poplin, Satin, Synthetic Suedes, Taffeta, Terry, Velvet | Regular Point | 14/90 |
Medium to Heavy-weight: Coating, Damask, Drapery Fabric, Fake Fur, Gabardine, Ticking, Woolens | Regular Point | 16/100 or 18/110 |
Denim and Canvas | Denim/Jeans | 16/100 |
Sheer to Lightweight Knits: Jersey, Single Knit, Spandex, Tricot | Ball Point | 10/70 or 12/80 |
Medium to Heavy-weight Knits: Double Knit, Sweatshirt, Sweater Knit | Ball Point | 14/90 |
Specialty Fabrics: Leather, Suede, Buckskin | Wedge Point | 14/90 or 16/100 |
Change Needles Often
For optimal performance, change your needle every 6-8 hours of sewing. Needles should also be changed after encountering sewing problems. Below are some tell tale signs that it's time to change your needle.
- Broken or shredding threads
- Skipping or uneven stitches
- Puckered or damaged fabrics
- Popping sounds heard while sewing